Frequently Asked Questions

We use acoustic leak detection equipment that amplifies the sound of water escaping under pressure, paired with infrared thermal imaging to spot the resulting heat or moisture signature through the flooring. This lets us mark a precise, small target area instead of guessing.

Yes. Water under a slab erodes soil and base material, which can lead to further settling, mold growth, and floor or wall cracking the longer it runs. Most slab leaks that go undetected continue to worsen rather than resolve on their own.

In many cases a localized spot repair or a short reroute above the slab is possible once the leak is precisely located. The right option depends on your home's plumbing layout, pipe material, and the age of the system, which our technician can walk you through after the inspection.

Turn off every fixture and appliance that uses water, then check your water meter. If the leak indicator dial is still moving, or the meter reading changes over a 1-2 hour period with nothing running, that's a strong sign of a hidden leak somewhere in the system.

Yes. Supply and drain connections at water heaters, washing machines, dishwashers, and ice makers are common leak points and are included as part of a full interior water leak inspection.

Many California homeowners' policies cover sudden and accidental water damage, though coverage for the detection work itself and for gradual, long-term leaks varies by carrier and policy. We recommend confirming the specifics with your insurance provider, and we're glad to provide a written diagnostic report to support a claim.

Evaporation typically accounts for roughly a quarter to half an inch of water loss per day depending on heat, wind, and sun exposure. Loss beyond that range, especially if it continues with the pump off, usually points to an actual leak rather than evaporation.

Pressure testing lets us isolate which line is losing pressure without excavation. Once the affected line and general area are identified, only that section needs to be accessed for repair.

Both. Attached spas, jets, heaters, filters, and pump seals at the equipment pad are all common leak points and are part of a complete pool and spa leak inspection.

Leave the building immediately, avoid using light switches, phones, or anything that could spark, and call 911 or your gas utility's emergency line from a safe distance before contacting anyone else. Do not attempt to locate the leak yourself.

Yes, underground gas line leaks can often be traced using surface gas detection surveys and pressure testing, similar to how we approach underground water line leaks, without excavating the entire run.

We locate and confirm gas leaks and can coordinate repair or replacement work. Because gas work has specific code and utility requirements, we'll walk you through the safest and most compliant path forward for your specific situation.

A flexible camera on a push-rod or cable is fed into the sewer line through a cleanout or drain access point, sending a live video feed back to a monitor. We record the footage and note the exact distance to any cracks, breaks, or blockages found.

Yes, roots are drawn to the moisture and nutrients in a sewer line and can enter through small existing cracks or joints, gradually widening them and eventually causing blockages or breaks. Root intrusion is one of the most common issues we find on camera inspections.

Not necessarily. Once camera inspection identifies the exact defect location, targeted excavation or trenchless repair methods such as pipe lining or pipe bursting may be options, which your repair contractor can evaluate based on the footage and findings.

Acoustic and tracer-gas methods can typically trace leaks on residential service lines regardless of typical burial depth, since we're detecting the sound or gas signature that travels to the surface rather than digging to visually inspect the pipe.

We isolate the irrigation system and the main service line separately during testing, so we can tell you definitively which system the leak is on before any repair work begins.

We provide a clear marked location and a written diagnostic report. From there, targeted excavation or trenchless repair can proceed at just that section of line instead of digging along its entire length.

It depends on the pipe material, the home's leak history, and the specific leak's location. A single leak on sound copper pipe often only needs a spot repair, while recurring leaks or aging galvanized lines usually make a reroute or repipe the more durable long-term choice. We'll lay out the trade-offs for your specific situation after the leak is located.

Because the leak location is precisely marked ahead of time, access is typically limited to a small, targeted area rather than the whole room. The exact footprint depends on the repair approach chosen and where the leak sits relative to walls and fixtures.

In many cases, yes. An overhead reroute through the attic or a perimeter reroute around the home's exterior can replace the damaged under-slab section with new pipe run above or around the slab instead of through it, which some homeowners prefer specifically to avoid concrete work.

Our focus is the plumbing repair itself. We can coordinate with a drywall or restoration contractor for the finish work, or hand off a clear scope of the opening size and location so your own contractor can close it up.

Recurring pinhole leaks across an aging copper system is often a sign the whole system is nearing the end of its service life rather than an isolated issue. In that case we'll talk through whether targeted repairs or a broader repiping plan makes more sense.

Yes, supply and drain connections at water heaters, washing machines, dishwashers, and ice makers are common repair points and are handled as part of general water leak repair.

Not usually. Most shell and plumbing repairs only require draining the pool to just below the repair point, not a full drain, which limits water loss and keeps the turnaround faster.

Localized shell cracks and niche leaks can typically be repaired in place. Whether a broader replaster is also worth doing at the same time depends on the overall condition and age of the existing finish, which we can assess during the repair visit.

Once pressure testing identifies the affected line, access is limited to that specific section of decking or yard rather than the full run, and in some cases an above-ground reroute can avoid trenching altogether.

We work directly with your local gas utility on shutoff and reconnection scheduling, and coordinate any required code inspections as part of the repair process.

It depends on the extent of corrosion or damage found. A single localized failure is often a sectional repair, while a line showing broader deterioration may call for a longer replacement run, which we'll explain clearly before work begins.

Timing depends on the scope of the repair and utility scheduling, but we plan the shutoff window to be as short as possible and will walk you through the expected timeline before the appointment.

Pipe lining installs a new liner inside the existing pipe, which works well when the original pipe's structure is basically sound but has cracks or root intrusion. Pipe bursting breaks apart the old pipe while pulling a new one through in its place, which suits a line that needs full replacement without digging a continuous trench.

It depends on the defect type, depth, and pipe material identified during the camera inspection. Many root intrusion and crack issues are good trenchless candidates, while severe collapses or unusually shallow lines may still call for traditional excavation.

Most trenchless repairs are completed in a single day once access pits are dug, though timing depends on the length of the affected run and site access conditions.

Not usually. Once the leak location is confirmed, a targeted excavation at that point is often enough for a single repair, and trenchless pipe-pulling methods can replace a full line's length through just two small access pits when full replacement is the better call.

A single, isolated leak on newer pipe is often a straightforward repair. A line with a history of repeat leaks, or one made of aging galvanized or polybutylene pipe, is usually a better candidate for full replacement rather than repeated patch repairs.

Yes, the main line has to be shut off during the repair itself, and we'll walk you through the expected timeline and minimize the disruption window as much as the repair method allows.